In brand marketing, women have traditionally been a key consumer group. However, a more in-depth exploration of the male consumer base is needed.

The 2023 Singles' Day shopping festival marked a notable milestone by revealing that men's purchasing power has now surpassed that of pet dog owners, signaling the emergence of the "he-economy."

With men's purchasing power on the rise, many brands are beginning to explore this previously untapped market.

This year, through a series of studies, we aim to uncover the authentic needs and behavioral motivations of male consumers, offering brands more precise insights for positioning and marketing strategies.

Summary:

• The exploration of contemporary "masculinity" will become a new opportunity for brands
• Successful cases of localization of international brands, exploring various ideal types of masculinity
• The binary model of "masculinity," exploring the essence of masculinity
• The transformation of "masculinity" under generational changes

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01 'Masculinity' Leading to New Opportunities

The book Masculinity describes a relationship between masculinity and economic behavior: "Masculinity has influenced sectors from automobiles to the cosmetics industry, becoming an effective economic force." [1]

However, at some point, our understanding of masculinity has been reduced to a simplistic stereotype of the so-called "straight guy."

Research conducted by Ylab indicates that as the primary consumption power shifts toward the Gen Z demographic, the fluidity and variability of masculinity become more evident, posing challenges in defining modern Chinese masculinity.

According to Douglas Holt and Douglas Cameron's cultural innovation theory, a new culture arises during the transition period of collective consciousness [2]. This period represents a prime opportunity for brands to develop cultural strategies, employ cultural tactics, and make significant brand advancements. Therefore, as the intrinsic motivations of male groups evolve, significant opportunities arise for brands.

In this new era, understanding and grasping masculinity and seizing trend opportunities are crucial for brands to innovate and achieve sustainable growth.

02 International Brands are Exploring the "Chinese Masculinity"

Case Study: L'Oréal Paris Men - Exploring the Idealized Image of "Chinese Masculinity"

Historically, international brands have ventured into the market of "Chinese Masculinity" with notable successes. This case study focuses on L'Oréal Paris's entry into China, which introduced the concept of the "modern urban man" and overcame growth limitations in the men’s skincare category.

Through this analysis, we will examine how the idealized image of masculinity contributed to the brand’s success.

Exploratory Phase (2006-2008)

During the exploratory phase, L'Oréal Paris concentrated on product functionality to enter the Chinese male consumer market. Despite these efforts, initial financial results were underwhelming.

In Chinese culture, the concept of appearance for men is influenced by a distinct "shame culture," which differs from Western attitudes. The prevailing belief that "a woman's beauty is solely for herself" can lead to skincare for men being perceived as a threat to their gender identity. This stereotype—that "using female skincare products diminishes masculinity"—has hindered the acceptance of skincare as a necessity among Chinese men.

As a result, marketing strategies that focused solely on men's skincare needs did not effectively drive consumer behavior.

"I use skincare products, therefore I am perceived as effeminate."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)

Strategy Correction Phase (2009-2018)

During the Strategy Correction Phase, L'Oréal Paris shifted its approach from focusing solely on men's skincare needs to redefining its brand strategy around the concept of Urban Masculinity.

Previously, marketing efforts that concentrated on skincare functions failed to influence consumer behavior effectively. In this phase, L'Oréal Paris targeted the primary consumer base of individuals born in the 1980s, known as "strivers" within China's developmental history. These consumers are distinguished by their pursuit of excellence and assertive demeanor, embodying the ideal of urban masculinity.

L'Oréal Paris rebranded itself to represent the "modern urban man," characterized by supreme confidence and control. This repositioning reframed the brand's skincare products as essential tools for self-expression among Chinese urban males, effectively distancing the products from notions of effeminacy and fostering a positive association with masculinity.

"I define my own style. Skincare is my attitude."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)

Meanwhile, L'Oréal Paris targeted various age demographics, categorizing male customers into segments such as "pioneering youth," "confident mid-young," and "mature middle-aged."

To reflect the evolving notion of masculinity, product lines were color-coded with shades like sea blue, orange, and crimson.

Additionally, L'Oréal Paris strengthened its brand messaging by incorporating imagery related to sports and e-sports, activities that symbolize male courage and confidence.

This strategic branding approach significantly increased L'Oréal Paris Men's skincare products' market share and stimulated growth within the men's skincare category.

Brand Leadership Phase (2018 - Present)

Since 2018, L'Oréal Paris has maintained its market leadership by further refining its portrayal of the male image.

The brand has cultivated an identity as a "pioneer of innovation" and broadened male expressions through initiatives such as the "Fashion Stylist for Men."

Recognizing men's preference for rationality and scientific evidence, L'Oréal Paris has emphasized professional-level category knowledge in its communications.

At the 2023 Singles' Day shopping festival, L'Oréal Paris Men's was ranked as the top men's skincare brand on Tmall.

" For men's skincare, I am the top expert."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)

03 Exploring the Essence of Masculinity

The Binary Model of "Masculinity": Internal and External Elements

At its core, masculinity explores the question of what defines a "true man." Current discussions highlight two primary components within the Binary Model of Masculinity:

1. Internal Virtue-Oriented Elements: These focus on the character traits that men are expected to exhibit, including bravery, confidence, responsibility, independence, rationality, resilience, and self-discipline.
2. External Achievement-Oriented Elements: These emphasize the attainment of power, wealth, status, physique, and sexuality.

The Binary Model of Masculinity

This theoretical framework provides valuable insights for constructing male-focused brands:

1. Creating 'Ideal Projection'

By integrating both internal and external factors, or by emphasizing specific traits, brands can establish diverse representations of masculinity.

Male consumers are not a monolithic group; various ideal types of masculinity can emerge from different combinations of internal and external elements. Brands can focus on specific aspects of masculinity to shape a distinctive male image.

For example, Dior Sauvage men's fragrance leverages its ambassador, Johnny Depp, to highlight a wild and daring image of masculinity. The fragrance's visual communication often features Western wilderness and primitiveness, promoting a "brave and wild" masculine quality that resonates with men's intrinsic drives. This approach aims to create a symbol that certifies male gender identity.

Research by Ylab indicates that male fragrances have also evolved to represent a rich and diverse range of masculinities. This evolution reflects the effectiveness of projecting ideal types of masculinity in appealing to Chinese male consumers.

"Perfume is my expression."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)

2. Modern Masculinity Defined by External Achievements

In various social and cultural contexts, mainstream masculinity has evolved, leading to different idealized forms of masculinity.

Sociologist Michael Kimmel explored masculinity in the United States and observed that before industrialization, the predominant male archetype was the "heroic artisan," characterized by virtues such as diligence, sincerity, and independence, typically associated with laborers.

By the mid-19th century, the dominant masculinity shifted to a "self-shaping" archetype, emphasizing "marketability." This shift was exemplified by figures like American industrialists Andrew Carnegie and John D. Rockefeller, who focused on wealth and capital achievements.

In China, as the country has progressed towards marketization and modernization, masculinity has also shifted to reflect external expressions. Traditional Chinese cultural norms once valued stability, responsibility, and conservatism as key traits of masculinity.

Today, however, masculinity in China is increasingly defined by attributes such as being a "domineering CEO" or exuding "masculine hormones," with a focus on external qualities like wealth, power, and sexuality.

3. The Fluidity of Masculinity Traits During Times of Significant Change 

As globalization and localization intersect, masculinity is shaped by both traditional local cultures and contemporary "he culture."

On one hand, certain aspects of masculinity rooted in local culture may persist through generations, reflecting a resurgence of traditional Chinese values.

On the other hand, these traditional traits may be challenged or redefined by newer generations. Additionally, the evolving diversity within "he culture" can influence and alter local cultural norms, leading to variations in masculine ideals.

It is crucial for brands to understand how to effectively capture and represent the ideal masculinity across different generations and cultural contexts. Identifying the right context and timing for engagement is essential.

What current changes are impacting the ideal paradigm of masculinity in the Chinese market today?

4. Changes in 'Masculinity' During Generational Transitions

The Shift from Outward to Inward 

With the emergence of the "he economy," the influence of male consumers has broadened significantly.

The "2023 Men's Care Industry Trend Insights: Tmall Men's Care White Paper" highlights a growing focus among men on comprehensive care, encompassing hair, face, grooming, and body care, as well as a balanced lifestyle [4].

Chanmofang, a market data intelligence platform for Douyin e-commerce in China, reports that sales of men’s perfumes and balms surged in 2023, with annual sales surpassing 60 million yuan, reflecting a year-on-year growth of up to 1151.31% [5].

Additionally, the "2023 H1 Men's Clothing Industry Social Media E-commerce Research Insights" shows that the top three categories of men’s clothing—T-shirts, casual pants, and jackets—have experienced significant year-on-year growth of over 60% [6].

While it is commonly assumed that male consumers prioritize functional and price-related factors, Ylab's generational research and observations reveal that factors such as age and occupation significantly influence their emphasis on emotional elements. This underscores the importance of recognizing the variation in needs across different generations of men and avoiding broad generalizations.

Furthermore, our analysis shows that the concept of 'ideal masculinity' is evolving within the male demographic. Although contemporary consumer society often emphasizes outwardly expressive masculine traits, there is a notable counter-current that values internal qualities.

(The Onion Model - Intrinsic Identity Drives Changes in Extrinsic Needs)

Since the mid-to-late 1990s, men who have grown up in China’s new era have increasingly valued internal qualities such as emotions and intelligence. This trend reflects a resurgence of the emotional and intellectual dimensions that are deeply rooted in traditional Chinese definitions of masculinity.

Case Study 1

Artistic Style Men’s Clothing: Reviving Traditional Scholar-Like Masculinity

A noticeable shift from the historical narrative of "working hard in silence" is evident among contemporary middle-class men, who now openly showcase their cultural tastes and personal thoughts. They increasingly prioritize pleasure and satisfaction in their daily lives, considering these experiences essential to their consumption habits.

A prominent example is Sketch CROQUIS, a mid-to-high-end men’s clothing brand under the Jiangnan Cloth label. This brand, known for its simple art and personalized styles, reflects both external and internal shifts in masculinity within the fashion domain.

With its core concept of "Humor and Reflection," Sketch CROQUIS expresses the personalities and leisure experiences of local middle-class young men. The brand's marketing strategy effectively captures the ideal masculinity of relaxation, restraint, and artistic refinement—values highly valued by creative middle-class men. This is achieved by featuring prominent figures like folk musician Chen Hongyu and comedian Li Dan as brand ambassadors, who embody the brand’s values of "elegance, playfulness, contemporariness, and texture."

In terms of design, Sketch CROQUIS emphasizes quality and practicality. The sophisticated color combinations and artistic cuts enhance the brand's "textured fashion," appealing to men's preferences for intuitive, minimalist clothing while reviving the traditional Chinese masculinity of "scholarly demeanor" through unique, relaxed, and artistic creations.

"My inner self is not bound by external factors."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used forillustrative purposes only)

Case Study 2 

Lululemon Men's - Interpreting the Masculinity of the "New Generation Elite"

Initially, Lululemon targeted urban elite women, achieving significant success before expanding into the male consumer market. By 2017, the brand had refined its strategy for male consumers, and by 2021, the growth rate of its men's segment had surpassed that of its women's segment.

In transitioning from a focus on female to male consumers, Lululemon successfully captured the essence of the confident and composed new middle-class man, crafting the image of a “new generation elite”—a figure who is powerful, professionally driven, and fully present in the moment.

Lululemon’s branding strategy involved recruiting top athletes and personalities as brand ambassadors, appealing to the interests of new middle-class men. This included figures such as NBA player Jordan Clarkson and China’s first F1 driver Zhou Guanyu. By integrating these ambassadors’ personal demeanor with Lululemon’s product features, the brand effectively transcended traditional gender marketing and established itself among the "middle-class sports trio" for the new generation elite.

"Above strength, I choose to enjoy the present moment."

(Disclaimer: Image generated by AI, used for illustrative purposes only)

The conventional success metrics of "house, car,and money" no longer resonate strongly with the new generation of men. Raised in relatively affluent conditions, this new generation exhibits a shift towards internalizing masculinity, a trend that underscores a broader cultural return to valuing internal qualities in Chinese society. We will continue to monitor and report on these evolving trends and underlying motives.

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Reference：

Chan Mo Fang. Men's Beauty and Pet Track Sales Surge! Where Are the New Opportunities in Douyin E-commerce in 2024.

Duo Zhun and Tmall. 2023 Men's Grooming Industry Trends Insight: Tmall Men's Grooming White Paper. 2023.

Guo Ji Hang Yan. 2023 H1 Men's Clothing Industry Social Media E-commerce ResearchInsights. 2023.

Holt, Douglas B. How Brands Become Icons: The Principles of Cultural Branding.Harvard Business Press, 2004.

Kimmel, Michael. Manhood in America. Oxford University Press, 2017.

Shou Chuang Securities. Opportunities in the Chinese Women's Sports Market throughthe Growth Path of Lululemon. 2022.

Sui Hongsheng. Masculinities, Frontier Research Library of Core Topics in Foreign Language Disciplines. Foreign Language Teaching and Research Press, 2020.

Acknowledgement to the Team：

Yuhong Li, Bernice Tang, Melody Jin, Grace Yu, Lynette Duan, Cynthia Hu, Shera Liu, Jiayi Rong, Carol Gu, Chole Jiang, Nancy Yang, Shirley Wang, Erika Huang, Jessie Chen, Sylvan Wang